Installing new floors—especially tile—isn’t just about picking what looks good. I’m Robbie Fraikin from Raakss Reno, and if you’re considering new tile flooring, especially in a bathroom or kitchen, there are a few non-negotiables to make sure the job lasts. In this article, I’ll break down the key steps we take during a proper flooring installation, the prep involved, the difference between mortar and adhesive, and my personal tips from years of hands-on experience.
Let’s walk through what has to be done before you ever lay that first tile.
Why Flooring Prep Matters
When homeowners run into issues like loose tiles, cracked grout, or hollow-sounding floors, it’s almost always due to poor preparation underneath. People love choosing their tiles—but what’s under them is what makes or breaks the job.
To put it simply: if the floor below the tile moves, the tile above will crack, pop, or come loose. So no matter how beautiful or expensive your tiles are, a weak subfloor or bad installation technique will ruin it all.
The 3 Main Ways to Prep a Floor for Tile
1. Direct to Thick Wood Subfloor (1 1/4″ Minimum)
You can tile directly on wood, but only if it’s thick and sturdy. If you’re going this route, your subfloor needs to be more than 1 ¼ inch thick. Anything thinner will flex too much, and the mortar won’t be able to hold the tiles in place long-term.
The thicker the wood, the less movement, and the better your tiles will stay in place. I’ve seen far too many DIY jobs fail simply because someone tried tiling on ⅝” plywood without reinforcing it. Within months, the grout begins cracking and tiles start lifting.
2. Wire Mesh Over Thin Subfloors (Old-School Method)
If you’re working with thinner plywood and don’t want to raise the floor too high (to match existing floors like hardwood in the hallway), the old-school method is using a wire mesh system.
Here’s how it works:
A wire mesh is stapled to the subfloor.
Mortar is applied over the mesh.
Tiles are laid on top.
The wire mesh strengthens the bond between the mortar and the tile. It adds structure to the thin subfloor and prevents tile movement. I still use this method when homeowners want to keep floor heights consistent between rooms, and it works extremely well when done right.
3. Schluter Systems (Modern Option)
Schluter is a modern tile underlayment made of a flexible plastic membrane. You mortar it to the subfloor first, and once it’s dry, mortar your tiles directly on top of it.
Schluter works by absorbing movement between the floor and tile, which protects against cracking or tile lifting. It’s a great product if you want to go the extra mile—but I’ll be honest, it’s also more time-consuming and adds to the cost of the job. I don’t always use it myself unless the client specifically asks for it.
That said, many contractors swear by it, especially in homes with older floors that move a lot or in cases where moisture management is a concern.
What About Soundproofing?
Most people assume noise travels through the floors—but 95% of the time, it travels through the walls. Unless you’re living in a condo with a strict soundproofing requirement, it’s rare that floor-based soundproofing is necessary.
If you’re dealing with shared walls between a bathroom and bedroom, you might consider installing a product like Roxul (rockwool insulation) between the wall studs. It’s much more effective than anything you can put under the tile floor.
Mortar vs. Adhesive: Which One Should You Use?
A question I get all the time is: “What’s better—tile adhesive or mortar?” The answer depends on where you’re tiling, the condition of the surface, and how long you want it to last.
Mortar
Tile mortar is the tried-and-true method for long-lasting, heavy-duty flooring installs. It comes on thick and can be applied in varying thicknesses depending on the level of your subfloor. If your floor is uneven, mortar lets you correct that by applying more in some areas.
Best for: Bathroom floors, high-traffic areas, areas exposed to moisture
Waterproof: Yes
Adjustable thickness: Yes
Durability: Very high
I use mortar for nearly every bathroom renovation project. It’s strong, permanent, and can handle the weight and traffic of daily bathroom use.
Adhesive
Tile adhesive looks a lot like drywall compound—it’s pasty, thinner, and easier to apply. But it comes with limitations.
Best for: Kitchen backsplashes, laundry room walls, decorative wall tiling
Waterproof: Technically yes, but degrades over time with heavy moisture
Adjustable thickness: No (limited leveling ability)
Durability: Moderate
If you’re tiling small surfaces or working on flat walls, adhesive works well. But for bathroom floors or uneven surfaces? Stick with mortar.
Additional Tips for a Flawless Floor Install
Level your floor before you tile. Even the best mortar can’t save you from an uneven base.
Watch your heights. If you’re transitioning to hardwood or carpet in the hallway, plan how high your tile floor will sit after prep.
Check moisture levels. Especially in basements or old homes. Moisture buildup will wreck your flooring faster than anything else.
Use the right trowel. Deeper trowels for uneven floors, smaller notches for small tiles or tight spaces.
Let it set. Don’t rush to grout. Give the mortar enough time to cure properly before moving to the next step.
Final Thoughts: Get the Foundation Right
At the end of the day, a flooring installation is only as good as what’s underneath. Whether you’re going old-school with wire mesh, modern with Schluter, or directly onto a reinforced subfloor, the goal is always the same: zero movement, solid adhesion, and long-term durability.
I’ve installed hundreds of tile floors across the Greater Toronto Area, and what I’ve learned is this—cut corners in prep, and you’ll pay for it later. But do it right from the start, and your floors will look (and feel) amazing for decades.
Need help with your bathroom or tile flooring installation in Toronto or the GTA? Contact Raakss Reno and let’s talk about your space. We’ll walk you through the process and make sure it’s done once—and done right.